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Seville

Seville opens with a meal at El Rinconcillo, the city's oldest bar, founded in 1670 and still hung with cured jamón legs behind the counter; the Baroque tower of Iglesia de San Pedro, sometimes called the little Giralda, rises just a few minutes' walk away. Casa de Pilatos hides an Andalusian courtyard, colonnaded loggia, and manicured gardens behind an unassuming facade, while the real Giralda — capped by the bronze Giraldillo weathervane — anchors the skyline above the Cathedral's carved Gothic portals. Plaza de España curves around a tiled bridge and canal, the Torre del Oro stands guard over the Guadalquivir, and the belle-époque Hotel Alfonso XIII presides over a round of cocktails at the end of the day. The Real Alcázar closes the loop on Seville's layered history: a Mudéjar facade covered in Arabic inscriptions, the gilded dome of the Salón de Embajadores, sun-splashed gardens with the Giralda peeking over the walls, and — a short walk away — the Museo del Baile Flamenco, a reminder that this is still very much a living city, not just a historic one.

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